Trekking down Diamond Beach and Kelingking beach with my fear of heights

Diamond Beach and Kelingking Beach – two of the most beautiful places in Nusa Penida, Bali and two of the most vertigo-inducing ones too. It is tricky for someone who has an adventurous soul and also has the fear of heights or water. During our previous trip to Nusa Penida back in 2020, we both just enjoyed the views from the top at these two places. Back then, I knew I wanted to trek down to the beach from the cliff tops someday. Last year, during my month-long solo trip to Bali, I had actually done it. For someone who is scared of heights, things like these – flying in an aircraft or climbing down the steep slope of mountains and cliffs – seem like a significant victory over the fears I have.

Both the places are located at the opposite ends of the island – DIamond beach in the east and Kelingking beach in the west. In the sheer scale of beauty, both these places are definitely two of the most stunning places you would ever see anywhere in the world. The spectacular views from the top of the cliffs have already made their way into the social media space and wallpapers of digital devices long back. However, what lies at the bottom of both the cliffs at the beach is something that is difficult to put into words. I knew this for a fact and that made both the treacherous treks worth every effort.

Both the treks take around 40-50 minutes from the top all the way down to the beach. The path down at Diamond Beach can look simple and relatively straightforward with small steps carved out along the white limestone cliff wall. The sheer drop on one side is obstructed with a railing made from two strands of thick rope and short wooden pillars fixed on the rocks with concrete. As if this was not doing enough to bring in my fear of heights , the “railing” goes only as far as the stairs go which would be halfway to the bottom. The rest of the path is steps cut out on the rocks and boulders with ropes and bamboo for support. A misstep here and a slip there, I know I would be free falling down on the huge boulders at the bottom.

Kelingkling beach though was an entirely different story. As in, the panic levels were ten times higher as I made my way down slowly. Here too, the path starts off with comfortable stairs which go on till the point where instagram “influencers” in their red/yellow/white gowns can reach without breaking much sweat. Beyond that, the path takes a sharp right turn and disappears into the canopy of trees. For an imaginative and adventurous mind, it would feel like venturing into nothingness of an unknown land. The way from this point downwards was a rollickingly scary combo of tiny slots carved on the slope of the cliff, precariously delicate railing made from worn out wood and gradually narrowing space for more than one person to pass through. Add to this a couple of curious monkey herds, looking like monkeys do – suspicious and unpredictable. At almost halfway down the pathway, the trek literally becomes a climb down. You would have to show some simple rock climbing skills, a firm grip on the tree roots, thin ropes and even thinner bamboo shafts at almost vertical drops till all the way down to the beach. All this while you wait either to catch a breath or to make way for others going up.

What made both the treks easier? To know that I would be rewarded with being in two of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Also, the views from along the way down, especially the ones at Kelingking beach, were absolutely special. I managed to get a few shots while holding on to either a rock or tree root with one hand. I found the trek at Kelingking beach more rewarding and relatively easier than Diamond beach. Mostly because of those insane views, the sheer magnificence of the place and the forest cover which gave me a sense of protection from the dizzying heights and shade from the excruciating heat.

What was the difficult part? The climb up to both the places. More exertion on the body in that heat actually amplified my vertigo. I must admit it was scary for me to see that vertical drop at Diamond beach on my right. Even at Kelingking, it was a proper climb along the wall of the cliff and I actually realized how huge this place really was. At some point I remember having a full blown panic attack when I was hanging on to the tree roots while making my way up. At that moment, I did what I could do best – focus. I focused on the next step, the next thing to hold on to and I talked myself through the fear of heights. I told myself to imagine how I would feel once I completed this climb. I looked past the embarrassment of watching some other folks just breezing past me. It was my struggle and I acknowledged it. I had no way other than making my way up. And I did.

At Kelingking, once I reached the top, among the hoards of tourists queued up to get their “instagram-worthy” shot, a young woman noticed me sweating profusely and asked me “Did you go all the way down? How was it? Difficult?”. Already out of breath, I could muster up enough to reply, “Yes. It’s worth everything. You’ll remember it always”. I don’t know if she did go down to the beach or not. But I certainly remember each and every moment of both these treks. The scrapes and bruises did not matter at all. For a couple of days at least, I overcame my fear.